Beer is Pretty

Our collection of half pints at Dieu du Ciel.

North of the Border - Brewpub Extrordinaire

Patriot's Day is a great excuse to get away from the patriots in Boston and to our more sensible neighbor up north--Canada.

So Chris and I loaded up our day bags, a six-pack of Boston's Harpoon for our hosts and a tag-along from craigslist. Our first stop: Burlington to drop off our carpooler.

We took the opportunity to quench our thirst at, what else, a brewery. Vermont Pub & Brewery is the state's oldest craft brewery and the 2nd oldest on the East Coast at a measly twenty years. (I wonder what Germany's Hofbrau Munchen would say to that?)

Next stop was an hour long wait at the border. Given that last time I went to Canada I flashed my driver's license and sped through, this must be a product of our new security. By the time we made it to Canada, though the air had warmed, paradoxically and the sky had cleared.

Though Izzie, my GPS, doesn't allow one to put in Canadian addresses (which scared us for a moment), I was able to find our hosts' location by zooming in on the city and pointing to where I wanted to go.

Our crashing place for the weekend, found on couchsurfing.com, were perfect hosts, giving us recommendations for authentic bars and reviews of local brew-pubs before heading out to their own BBQ.

Make sure you add these places to your must-drink lists for when you visit Montreal:

Bily Kun - a dark spot, decorated with mounted ostrich heads, and staffed barely-english speaking waitresses. This was the only non-brewpub on our trip.

Vices & Versa - another spot, that looks like it would be dark, except the Canadians were playing on a massive flatscreen and causing everyone to hurl curses at the tv. They brew their own beer there and had a great selection of local brews too.

The Trois Brasseurs - A French owned chain, with locations only in Quebec and France. They're design was industrial classy, the bartender was wicked friendly and helpful and the beer was basic and mighty well-done

Brutopia - A friendly pub in the touristy section of town, we hoped to catch a bluegrass show that was listed in the paper as starting at 5pm . . . but we ended up having to leave at 6:30 before they started playing

Helm - Probably the most mind-blowing drinks of the trip. Chris and I had received our sampler of brews, and Francesca and Julien lifted their glasses to toast and we were confused. 'Shouldn't we wait until you get your drinks?' I asked, looking at their clear, still tall glasses of water. Well, it wasn't water, it was cider. Completely clear, still-looking cider. They were the confused ones when we told them that our cider is always brown. Hmmmm . . .

Dieu du Ciel - Our last bar was a nice, sunny corner spot with a long, long list of home-brewed beer. We ended up making our own sampler of lots of small glasses of stuff . We enjoyed our last few hours in the city, soaking in the sun and beer, watching the dozens of biking commuters whiz by.

Day Two Report Part 1

Our second day of Beer Tour was a slow meander up the Maine coast. We land first in Kennebunk at the Federal Jack's Brewery at 11am.

Oddly the power went out just before we got there and the staff apologized they wouldn't be able to cook anything. "That's okay: we're just here for the beer!" we replied. So no problem, we got seated and delivered two orders of the sampler. Oddly most of the beer was from Shipyard Brewery. Chris dutifully took notes of all our tastings. Favorites of the group were the Brown Ale and Chamberlain. I loved the taste of the 'Taint Town a British bitter. (Read the story of Taint Town here.) Taint town unfortunately was the only beer not sold in the gift shop; it was only available in the bar.

Next stop was Biddeford-Saco. On an island between the two towns is a charming repurposed industrial complex with the Run of the Mill Public House and Brewery.

This was my favorite brewpub on the trip. A dark interior with rustic wood everywhere, the big windows opened up to the water. The food was amazing. The cooks weren't thrown off by my request for a reuben vegi burger. The beer was cleverly named: Alewife Ale, Bug Lager, Smelt Camp Strong Ale, Impact Pale Ale, and Cassk Kickin IPA. Folks were fans of the Alewife Ale and Tarbox Cream Stout.

Our trick to making friends everywhere was to announce that we were on a beer tour. The staff were all helpful in making suggestions for our next stop and we learned a bit about the politics and economics of breweries in Maine. Apparently the 'cute and local' Shipyard owned a lot of the breweries we were planning on visiting. Whenever a brewery wasn't doing too well Shipyard would buy it up. Or if a brewery grew past it's capacity they'd give their recipe to Shipyard to brew.

Well, there went our quaint little brewery fantasy. Turns out Shipyard owns Seadog, Casco Bay and Kennebunk. (Later in their brewery we'll see Peak Organic boxes in their brewery too.)

After Saco it was just another hour to Portland. . .